India celebrates Navratri differently in all states commonly signifying the win of good over devil. The East celebrates it with pomp and show, mela and pandal as Durga Puja, North with Ramleela, West with garba and dandiya, while South is with the display of dolls called as Golu. Also known as Bommai Kolu or Bombe Habba is the artistic display of clay, paper mesh and wooden dolls on multiple steps. As the legend goes, the Gods and Goddesses helped Maa Durga by lending their powers to her when she set out to fight Mahishasura. By giving their powers away, they were rendered doll-like. Golu is a tribute to them and this celestial tale.
How to Golu is an interesting series. Penning down a short version of it here. On the auspicious day of Amavasya, the steps are prepped, and the dolls are arranged. The grandma edits have certain procedures are to be followed in arranging the dolls(we also have no rules golu in modern times). Bottom to top, the first step holds the farm life, Marapachi dolls, along with Chettiar couple and their groceries. The second holds the freedom fighters, following the third with celebrated poets,saints,gurus and dolls depicting their life. The next tier has the 8 avatars of MahaLakshmi – Ashtalakshmi, followed by the step with Maha Vishnu’s incarnations- Dasavatharam figurines. A kalasam forms the most important avaahanam done on prathamai(first) day. A brass kalasam is filled with rice and toor dal with some coins till its neck. Mango leaves are placed in the sides and a coconut is kept over it.
Behind the kalasam goes a mirror and some bangles are added to it. The kalasam is considered as Goddess Durga. The topmost step holds the Kalasam with Lakshmi, Saraswathi and Ganesha dolls. Homes are decorated with flowers and kolam. The look of the Golu could vary depending on how big or small one plans and practices of every family for generations. Some golu gets creative with a depiction of movie, cricket stadium, a zoo or any world news.
The nine days of Navaratri starts on prathamai and ends on Vijayadasami. Puja and prasadam is a daily routine along with Golu hopping that involves exchanging sundal, sweets and thamboolam(hamper with betel leaves, betel nut, turmeric, bangles, flower and a small return gift) amongst family and friends. On the tenth and last day, the Golu dolls are put to sleep and packed for their return until the next Navratri. Thus is the grandeur of India’s Doll festival.
Madhu Chandrasekaran is an Electronics and Communication engineer, currently working in the Automotive industry in Munich, Germany. While in India, she has spent much of her time going around the rurals exploring ancients. She believes every temple wants itself to be explored and that there’s so much science and faith behind every closed vault.
Dr Dinesh Soni