A Unique Centre of Devotion
A Temple which provides entrance to devotees only on a single auspicious day in an year, which anticipates a large chunk of population including devotees, tourists and historians. It is none other than Mangaladevi Temple near Kumali, Idukki district. Being one of the ancient temples in kerala, Its history traces backs to folklores and stories. It is situated 15 kilometres near Periyar Tiger Reserve. The Temple Deity is Kannaki, Heroine of the Epic Cilappatikaram. Devotees are allowed to enter the temple only on the day of Chitra Pournami.
Since temple is situated in the Kerala- Tamil Nadu border, which resulted in the disputes between both states. This function is facilitated only under the supervision of district collectors and police officers of Teni and Idukki. The temple is situated 1337 km above the sea level.
Unfolding history
Timeline of this Temple is uncertain. It is estimated that this temple was built around 2000-2500 years ago by Cheran Chenkuttavan A Chera king who was contemporary of Ilanko adikal author of Cilappatikaram. It is believed that temple was built on the spot where Kannagi returned after the destruction of Madurai city.
Architecture
The temple is built in an ancient architectural style of square blocks of granite. The temple is situated on top of the hill in periyar reserve forest. There are four temple complexes made of granite. The eastern part is completely forested. There are two entrances but one is unused. Shrubs, trees and large trees completely block the entrance. The footpath is on the north side of the temple.The main attraction is the four huge pillars. The pillars are square and about ten feet high. Out of the four temple complexes, only two main ‘pujas’ take place. One of these has Mangala Devi and the other Shiva. One is inactive. Then there is a small shrine with the deity of Ankaleshwari. The largest of the four temples is in Kovi, which has a Shiva deity. The deity is in stone.
The enclosure wall is made of rectangular stone blocks with beautiful carvings and is about 80 feet long, 30 feet wide and 12 feet high.
The gateways on the south and north sides are built with precise dimensions.
The heads of the idols are in a broken state. Images of a lactation of milk in Shivalinga, a peacock and a tiger are carved on the sides of the circular path. The 2 feet high and 3 feet long dragons seen on both sides of the steps leading to the main temple look like elephants when viewed from one side. The influence of Chinese sculpture is evident in the construction style of this sculpture.This famous model of sculpture came to Madurai from China in ancient times and merged with Indian sculpture.
The shrine here is completely different from the usual temples. A one-room shrine with no pavements or gopura doors. Devotees can pray very close to the deity. Although the idol is within arm’s reach, there is a stone wall separating the devotees from the deity. This is the same in Kannaki’s shrine. A silver idol of Kannaki or Mangala Devi.This idol is brought here from Kamba on the full moon day of Chaitra month.
Controversy between the States
There is no credible evidence about how temple, which is uninhabited and deep in the jungle, is in ruins. Parts of the shrine and even parts of the deity were in a broken state, so it was not known exactly which deity it was. In the 1980s, Tamil Nadu people laid claim to the temple, which had been neglected for centuries, and the site, which geographically falls within Kerala’s borders, became a disputed area.
Later on, Chitrapournami day, it was decided to allow the priests of one temple in Kerala and another in Tamilnadu to perform puja.
The Chitrapournami festival of Mangaladevi is famous. Around 25,000 people including devotees and tourists come for this festival. Special pujas from 6 am to 4 pm. The entrance to the temple is through the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary.
Private vehicles will not be allowed. Devotees can reach Mangaladevi on this one day by specially permitted taxi jeeps or by walking 15 km. The Periyar Tiger Reserve, which includes Mangaladevi, is under strict surveillance by the Forest Department. Kannaki Trust, Tamil Nadu – Ganapathi-Bhagavathy Temple Trust, Kumali is the festival organizer.
Conclusion
This temple is known for the rare sight that can be seen only once in a year. That is why Chaitrapournami is crowded here. The festival of Goddess Mangala is a festival of nature. Bhakti here is a distinct feeling that can be evoked in the coolness of the forest. An atmosphere where even nature is silently chanting the praises of Mangaladevi.
The author hails from Kannur, in Kerala. He has completed Masters in history from sree Sankaracharya university of Sanskrit, kalady kerala(2020-2022)and also completed PG diploma archaeology from centre for heritage studies. He has worked on excavation at Megalithic burial site (rock cut chambers)excavation at Cheemeni, Kerala & Harappan site excavation – padtabut, Kachchh district, Gujarat.
Dr Dinesh Soni
Dr Hima Bindu Kanoj